In Póvoa de Varzim, the history of the pullover goes back to the 18th century, when fishermen wore sweaters made by themselves from local wool and decorated with simple motifs inspired by Nature.
18th century: a fisherman's sweater
Made from wool from Serra da Estrela, sold in thick skeins and known as “Poveira wool”, the pullover is made exclusively in “Azurara”, a small village of less than 1,000 inhabitants near Vila do Conde. It is then embroidered by the elders of Póvoa de Varzim, too old to go fishing.
Credit I A Voz da Póvoa
His designs are inspired by traditional Minho motifs, seen on Barcelos crockery, lovers' handkerchiefs and peasant shirts. Birds, flowers, vases... Everything around the embroiderer is a source of inspiration...
1892: Tragedy dooms him.
On February 27, 1892, tragedy struck the village of Póvoa de Varzim: 105 fishermen lost their lives at sea, provoking a national outcry. On the orders of Queen Amélia, the Shipwreck Relief Institute (ISN) was founded, and traditional white clothing was banned as a sign of mourning.
It wasn't until 1936, with the creation of the Poveiro folk group, that António Santos Graça revived the original Poveira shirt.
Post-war: An international icon
6 years later, in 1942, the film “Ala-Arriba de Leitão” won an award at the Venice Film Festival, helping to introduce him to the “Camisola Poveira” beyond Portugal's borders.
Credit I Arquivo do Museu Municipal da Póvoa de Varzim
Poveira's embroidered pullovers attracted a wider national and even international audience. New motifs appeared, incorporating maritime elements such as boats, anchors, rudders and fish, enriching its aesthetic.
In 1968, Princess Grace of Monaco, photographed wearing a Poveira sweater, contributed to its prestige and worldwide recognition.
20th century: Oblivion and revival
Over time, however, it lost popularity and was gradually confined to “nostalgia tourism”. It was mainly bought by emigrants from Póvoa de Varzim. Its trade gradually disappeared, and it remains only in a few local tourist stores.
Aware of this threatened cultural wealth, the municipality of Póvoa de Varzim launched several initiatives to revive this unique heritage. The sweater became a local symbol, worn at all events. Its originality, authenticity and quality are once again appealing.
The “camisola Poveira” can be found in all the country's tourist attractions. The wool used is no longer always of good quality, patterns are diversifying and poor-quality counterfeits are threatening the sweater's image.
Credit : Voz da Póvoa
Today: A protected icon.
The Póvoa de Varzim Town Council then took radical decisions and issued a number of standards requiring that the “camisola Poveira” be made as it was 150 years ago.
The wool can only come from the Serra da Estrela, the sweater must be knitted and then hand-embroidered, the red, white or black motifs must respect historical patterns, and it can only be made in Póvoa de Varzim.
Credit I C.M. da Póvoa de Varzim
Today, only a handful of accredited craftsmen are authorized to make authentic “Camisola Poveira”, provided they comply with the specifications. In exchange, each piece comes with a numbered certificate of authenticity identifying the person who made it.
These requirements make it instantly recognizable. Its design combines the simplicity of a plain knit with a flat structure, raglan sleeves and a neckline closed by small twists. Its embroidered decoration on the chest, sleeves and neckline make it very bright without detracting from its simplicity.
1 comment
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