In Portugal, as in many other countries, 11 November, St Martin’s Day, is when families gather to enjoy the last rays of sunshine and welcome the arrival of the cold weather.
This tradition has given rise to popular customs centred around celebration, chestnuts, wine and brandy.
The legend of Saint Martin
Martinho, a Roman soldier who later became a monk, then a bishop and finally a Catholic Saint, was born in 316 and died in 397.
His legend tells that, on his way home in very cold weather, he was stopped by a beggar freezing with cold who asked him for alms. Martinho tore his cloak in two and gave half to the beggar. At that moment, the sun appeared, warming the atmosphere. Since then, God, as a reward, has granted a few days of fine weather every year to celebrate St Martin’s Day.
Celebrating St Martin’s Day in Portugal
St Martin is celebrated all over Europe. In Germany, bonfires are lit for the passing of processions. In Spain, the custom is to slaughter pigs, and in the United Kingdom there is the expression “St Martin’s Summer”.
In Portugal, these few days of sunshine also mark the time when chestnuts can be gathered in the forests and when the new wine, made from the summer’s harvest, can be tasted.
It is therefore traditional to hold a “Magusto” (chestnut feast), during which the first chestnuts are roasted, the new wine is tasted and Água-pé is drunk. Água-pé is made from grape pomace and brandy to which water is added.
There are many popular sayings associated with this celebration:
- “No São Martinho, vai à adega e abre o vinho” – On St Martin’s Day, go to the cellar and open the wine
- “Pelo São Martinho, prova o teu vinho” – On St Martin’s Day, taste your wine
- “No Dia de São Martinho, lume, castanhas e vinho” – On St Martin’s Day, fire, chestnuts and wine
Roasted chestnuts
Chestnuts were once a staple food. The chestnut tree was even called the “bread tree”. They can be eaten raw, dried, boiled, roasted, grilled in the oven, under the embers or in perforated pans.
They can also be candied, crystallised, preserved in alcohol, cooked into jam or purée, or even ground into flour to make flatbreads.
In Portugal, however, the tradition is to enjoy them roasted in an “Assador de castanhas”, a special chestnut roaster that allows them to be both flame-grilled and steamed.
The recipe is as follows:
- Score the skin of each chestnut on the rounded side with a cross and soak them for about an hour.
- Light the barbecue to prepare good embers.
- Place the chestnuts in the “Assador de castanhas” roaster and set it on the grill.
- Cook for 20–25 minutes; the chestnuts are ready when the scored skin peels back and a knife slides in easily.
Of course, there are other ways to cook chestnuts: in a frying pan, in the oven, and there are even microwave recipes!
Only the Assador de castanhas chestnut roaster achieves chestnuts that are both perfectly roasted and tender, thanks to the intense heat of the embers combined with the steam generated inside the utensil.
Água-pé
Água-pé is a typically Portuguese drink, similar to wine, traditionally served with chestnuts on St Martin’s Day. Very popular in the north of the country, Água-pé is made by adding water to grape pomace and brandy. Its name literally means “foot water”, because water was poured into the bottom of the must.
Once considered the poor man’s wine, Água-pé was cheap, widespread and often distributed to workers by their employers. Today, Água-pé has almost disappeared and only a handful of producers continue to preserve this tradition.